287 – Men’s Shirt – Collar band – (12/12) –   Edge stitching Collar band

287 – Men’s Shirt – Collar band – (12/12) – Edge stitching Collar band


So I had pressed under my collar band,
take all the pins out, trim it to a quarter-inch, and now that pressed under
same is repinned in place, making sure that my folded edge barely barely covers
my seam allowance. And if you’ll notice how close my pins are together, you’re
going to want to have several pins in here because, just like the cuff, we are
going to edge stitch this from the outside, hoping to completely catch that
edge and close the hole on the inside. And if you don’t have your pins close
enough together, you run the risk of missing your fabric and winding up with
places that you either have to restitch again or come back with the
hand needle and stitch closed. If you’re nervous about that, you certainly can
slip stitch this open and closed. If you choose to take a needle and thread and
just do a slip stitching and close this of the needle and thread quickly, then
you will edge stitch from the right side. And you don’t have to worry about
catching that edge because you’ve already caught it with a slip stitch, but
you can do it without substitute as long as you will pin carefully and then sew
carefully. But if you want to sift it, you certainly can. Once it’s pinned into
place, we are now ready to edge stitch the collar band, and even if you top
stitched your collar, the collar band is completely edge stitched all the way
around. It is edge stitched, no matter what you have done to your collar band
or to your cuffs or to your button band at the front. So we’re gonna
go to the machine and edge stitch. When you edge stitch your collar band you are
going to start fairly near center back, doesn’t have to be exact exact, but get fairly
close to the center back. Kind of find your two seams, get in the center of it,
and you start at the top of your collar band, or where the collar band has been
attached to the collar. I’ll start at that point that point And we’re going to stitch completely all
the way around this collar band. Your top edge is completely closed already. If it helps you win your edge stitching,
you’re welcome to use the number 5 foot or number 10 foot. Stitch around this. Remember, edge stitching by definition is
an eighth of an inch or less from the edge. And you sew it from the right side, you sew it from the face of the garment,
because it does show on the face of the garment. You notice when I started, I did
not backstitch. Because we are on the face of the garment, we won’t do backstitching. When you get to your curve, place your fingers at the side, kind
of as a pivot point, you can add a stitch around that curve. Keeping your stitching
parallel to the edge, pivot turn at the bottom corner. This corner is completely
enclosed as well, because we burrito seam that. So it did turn out like the David
Kaufman method. And now as you sew, your shirt is going
to be pushed through the sewing machine, here in this armband, as you come around
the bottom side. You’ll reach up underneath and take those pins out just
before you get to them. And I will quite often stick my fingertip on a pin so
that I know that next pin is just to the toe of the presser foot, and go ahead and
pull that out, and then I come down find my next pin. I know the next pin is at
the toe of the presser foot and I can reach up reach up underneath and take
that out. Remember those pins are facing,
I placed my pins fairly close together so that the backside of this would be… caught as we sew. And I would catch that
collar back facing. Make sure to go slow, not to travel, to stay straight.
Use your fingers, feel and make sure that there’s not fabric tucked
up underneath there. Again, I’ve got my finger where the next pin is so I know
when to reach up and take the pin out. And every time I reach up in there, and
make sure that I’ve, notice that I’m making sure I pulled that shirt back
out of the way again so I don’t catch my shirt as I’m coming around here. As you get towards the front, sometimes its easier to just to go ahead and pull the shirt so the majority of its not behind your
machine. Keep just enough there no this is I’m sewing I also look quite
often hold my hands which allows me to pull on my seam allowance just a little
bit and keep that defined so I don’t wind up with a little bubble along my
seam allowances I’m head stitching it into place and I continue to in front of it of the
garment here hit it turn and head up around that curve and then along the found color band back
tail you reach your stitching so as you head around the top of the
collar again you’re just going to continue to sew until you come back to
where you began and when you get back to where you began you’ll just stitch over
the top of those stitches we’re about three or four stitches that way your
first stitching does not even not these three or four stitches we’ll get it and
then you’ll tie a knot in the end of that when you’re through then you’ll
flip it over look at it ideally all along this edge here it should be caught
and it should be fairly close to looking like an edge stitching and not have any
tucks in it which is what we’ve got and that is good so that the collar band
facing is completely enclosed if you look at the outside our edge stitching
is it even with all the way around without wobbles our collar folds down
and rolls and then your color band will lay smooth as long as it’s got a curve
to it if you pull it out straight it’s going to tend to be a little bit Ripley
which is what we want we want it to want to stay curved and when you have that
your color band is done and you are completes the only thing you have to do
is pull your thread through and tie your knot on the back there and then you are
done okay

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