Bernina 330 04  Selecting Stitches

Bernina 330 04 Selecting Stitches


Let’s get you familiar with the way the machine
is set up and how to pick different stitches. When you turn the machine on, you see a number
one on the screen, and a default setting for length. The length will go up and down on
the right side of the screen, and the width will come across the top part of the screen. There’s also an indication of which presser
foot number you should use for the stitch you’ve selected. If I select an overlock stitch,
it’s going to recommend foot number two, which you have in your collection. If I go back
to number one, it remembers and sets me up for a nice stitch length, nice medium stitch
length. We would change the stitch length, longer
for heavier fabrics. What’s nice is, as you come up to, say, stitch length of three, that
would be 3 mm, leaves you a little blinking indication where normal was. You can always
look at a glance and notice that you are not on the normal setting anymore. So, Longer
stitch length; you can change the stitch length while you’re sewing. That’s all the way up
at five, then all the way down. Now, if you get all the way to zero, well, you’re not
going anywhere, so don’t stay there very long. I love the little hash marks right above zero
and one. That would be kind of a satin stitch range when you’re in a zigzag. We’ll do that
next. The easiest way to bring that back up to its default setting is come over here to
the clear button. That will return it right back to where you started. To pick a zigzag, select stitch number two.
Stitch number two is going to set up for a length and a width this time. We can go ahead
and sew all the way across. You see that it just starts off with a normal setting.
If I want the machine to stop with the needle in the down position – right now you see the
picture is indicating, with the arrow pointing up, that the needle will stop in the up position
– by touching this button one time, now every time I stop sewing, it’s going to stop in
the fabric, making it very easy to pivot and turn my fabric at corners or for appliqué.
Stop, pivot and turn. As we make our stitch width wider, that’s
going be the two buttons at the top. Go ahead and push it all the way up. Again, you can
change it while you’re sewing. Your maximum stitch width is 5.5 mm. Again, if you bring
this all the way to zero, you will get a – straight stitch! No width equals straight stitch. Once
again, if you push clear, it will get you back to the default setting where you started. I love turning a zigzag into a satin stitch.
A satin stitch is when you bring the stitch length close enough together that the zigs
touch each other. We’re just going to come down I’m kind of sewing and touching the down
shortened stitch length arrow as I go, and I’m seeing I’m getting close to that little
hashmark area right above zero. Depending on my thread thickness depends on when I really
am there. I’m looking down at the needle, seeing if I’m really still moving forward
without having to push it. Oops, I’m getting a little thick, so I’m just going to bring
it up just a second. Once the needle stops in the down position
and you want it up, you can do a couple things. You can turn the hand wheel, which I’m not
a big fan of because then you don’t turn it to the right position. You can touch the button
one time and bring the arrow so it points back up, and then take one more stitch. That’s
one way. My favorite is, when the needle’s in the down position, and the picture shows
that it’s stopping always in the down position, is this. Touch and hold the needle up/down
button for two seconds. It brings the needle up that half a stitch, but remains keeping
the stitch where the needle will stop in the fabric. That’s my favorite one to use. You’ll
see me using that throughout the demonstration here. So look how you can get those stitches to
really close up for the perfect satin stitch, all with your project. Of course, now you
can take it and adjust the width. Now that you’ve got the length perfect, you can go
ahead and make it wider or narrower while you’re sewing. Hold that needle up/down button two seconds,
bring the needle up, and bring it out and cut your threads. See how I was able to make
the stitch width change while I was sewing and that nice pretty satin stitch, because
the stitch length was shortened close to zero? On this machine right now it’s showing about
three light bars up from zero. Again, that can vary. If you have finer thread, you’ll
be closer to zero, thicker thread you might be more at like four light bars across. Needle position. Let’s talk about what we
have when we’re using a straight stitch. We can move our needle position to the far right,
left or center or anywhere in between. That’s the two buttons here. Usually when you’re
sewing you’re going to have it in the center needle position, but I’m going to go ahead
and touch this button one time, and watch right here. The little dot is moving underneath
the numbers for the stitch width. If it’s all the way underneath zero, the needle’s
now over here on the left-hand side. As I move it, it’s just really going to just sew
from one side to the other, kind of a crooked stitch all the way down the fabric, but that’s
how it’s actually going to be. When we’re done, if you want to have a locking
stitch, you’re reverse button is right here. Touch and hold that, and it’ll just go back
in the same stitches that you did before. Release it when you want it to come forward
again. There’s another part of this reverse button.
It’s called continuous reverse. If you touch and hold, actually, nope, it’s the double
touch on this one. You double touch it, two times, you’re going to see the same picture
of the reverse button arrow on your screen. That means if you start sewing right now,
you will sew in reverse, backwards. Some people go, Oh, no, how do I get out of there? Double
touch it, and that’ll come off. The reason for that is there’s times where
you need more hands on your fabric then you have, and holding this is one less hand to
use, so you can turn your reverse button on with a double touch and there we go. Then
you can have your hands on your fabric. There has been a time, in project, I have used this,
and it really was a lifesaver because I needed three hands, actually, for the project I was
working with. Definitely know that if you’re going backwards, look at that. If you don’t
know how to turn that off, you can always turn your machine off and that will also reset
it. Once again, clear will bring my needle back to the center needle position. One other thing I love about Bernina is what’s
called an altered memory, a temporary altered memory. What that means is if I’m sewing on
a straight stitch and I’ve been working with a stitch length let’s say up to three. That’s
perfect for my project that I’m working on. Then I might go to a zigzag or a decorative
stitch up top. When I pick a zigzag and sew over here, sew my zigzag, when I come back
to stitch number one, it is right where I left it. You’ll see by the indication that
it’s above normal. I can have multiple stitches set at multiple settings. The temporary altered memory will work with
your stitch length, stitch width and needle position, so all three of these categories
here. Until you turn the machine off, it will remember it from stitch to stitch to stitch.
If you tweak one stitch, and then you tweak another stitch, and then a third stitch, it
will remember it and you can go from stitch one, two and three and those settings will
be there all throughout your sewing project. As soon as you turn the machine off, or you
push clear, that will clear out everything. Then the next day, you would need to reset
up those settings once again, but it’s so nice to go from, say, stitch one to stitch
two and have it be exactly where you left it.

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