Bodice sewing tutorial-How to// Cutting and Stitching

Bodice sewing tutorial-How to// Cutting and Stitching


hey Saseni my name is Asumpta and I make
DIY fashion videos if you’re new here feel welcome and you’ve been around
thank you so much I’m extremely grateful for you thanks to at Koko sleek and
Phyllis Gordon for inquiring more on the bodice block to tutorial I did some time ago
on stitching it and further explanation about the block generally I’ll try my
best to explain in this video so this is the bodice block I made while drafting
it we added five centimeters to the half bust measurements making it 10
centimeters on the full one we do this so as we may be able to add darts which
will shape the garment well especially at the bust and waist area the waist is
much smaller than the bust so the darts are 12 centimeters in total at the waist
when halved because we have 3.5 and 1.5 centimeters for the back as darts and 2.5
and 4.5 centimeters for the front darts totalling to 12 centimeters on one
half of the block making it a total of 24 centimeters that we were taking this
is how the metric method has it for all standard sizes maybe as we do the
cutting and stitching you’ll understand more on how it all comes together you
may need to control your pattern for better fit like I’m doing depending on
your ship I contoured with half an inch at the front waist and bust dart also
at the back but then I cut out the lower part anyways so I won’t be needing that you can watch a more detailed tutorial
on contouring linked below in the description and at the upper right
corner of the screen I moved the dart to the center shoulder
and the contouring too just so that it’s not too close to the neckline I
then cut out the pattern at the darts to form a princess line and shaped it at the sharp corners for
more smoother look I took a piece of scrap
fabric laying around in my stash that was big enough and used it for this
video so place the fabric on fold then place your back pattern on top leave
about an inch at the centre back for a zip I pinned the area where the darts are
so that the fabric doesn’t move around i thenmarked the dart point by passing
thread through the pattern piece cut out carefully while adding seam allowance
you can also add seam allowance on the pattern itself instead of while cutting
I just do this to work faster i then folded the fabric again and cut out the
center front panel of the pattern then the side panel i marked the
notches while cutting which are the points that helped balance the garment
pieces while cutting now we want to join the pieces together place them right
sides facing each other and pin them together use the notches to help you in
balancing the garment pieces now let’s take the back pattern pieces i had already
cut the thread so now I’m just seperating the pieces I folded the pattern and
pinned to help it stay in place I even drew the dart to help me stay in line here I’m changing the presser foot to
the regular one because the one that was there was the zipper foot
now stitch the pieces together once you’re done snip the curved areas
and reduce the excess fabric allowance this allows for the fabric to lie well
on the body now stitch the back darts now join the sides right sides facing
each other now I’m going to add a zip to the back
a hidden zip to be precise it however did not turn out hidden as it should
since that for me takes a lot of time and this is for demonstration purposes
only so I just stitched it quite fast Stitch the zip and you can iron the
bodies once more now it’s done and it came out really good at least to me the
contouring especially makes me happy as you can see the zip isn’t hidden at all
but that was on purpose as explained before otherwise if it’s a garment you’ll be
wearing or for client the zip should be well hidden the only thing I would do
next time is reduce the shoulder by about half an inch so that the
garment can raise up just a bit you can see when I pull it down where it’s
supposed to be there’s bulkiness at the empire waist but when I pull it up just
a bit it fits as it should and feels better too you can do this for yourself so that you
can adjust the garment to fit the way you want it to it’s very personal and
unique to you you may have to do many trial and errors before you get it right
but you get there eventually do try it if you’re interested in making your own
clothing and share with me on instagram using the hashtag theflairbeat and let’s
encourage each other that’s it for this video please feel free to comment your
thoughts like and subscribe if you liked the video and I’ll see in the next one
Kwaherini (bye)

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