HAND SEW LEATHER (HOW TO) saddle stitching & hand stitching

HAND SEW LEATHER (HOW TO) saddle stitching & hand stitching


so to demonstrate this I’m going to
stitch a line on one of our wallets this is the claude wallet it’s our most
popular wallet and to do it you need a piece of thread we’re using Ritza
thread it’s a braided polyester and two needles so the first thing you need to
do is measure how much thread you need so I just measure it out and then I just
multiply it by five or six times and that gives you enough thread that you
can complete the stitch and have enough room to back stitch it and now we’re
going to put our needles on both ends of the thread so first I like to take the
needle and press it against my thumb with the thread in between and pull it
through to kind of flatten it out so that I can have a nice flat surface to
go through the eye of the needle and then you take the point of the needle
and you push it through the thread about an inch back piercing gets through the
thread and then you take that little tail that you just created after poking
it through and you’re gonna pull that over the top of the needle back onto the
thread itself and now you’re going to take the long end of the thread and pull
it and that will sync up that little tail up to the eye of the needle locking
your needle in place and now we’re gonna do the exact same thing to the other end
of the thread so that you’re going to have two needles on either end of the
single piece of thread I also drink way too much caffeine right before I film
this so I’m sorry about the shaky hands now that our needles are mounted on
either into the thread we’re going to start our stitch so to begin with you’re
going to put one of your needles through the first hole so that you’ve got one
needle on either side of the stitch then you’re going to take that front needle
again and you’re going to go through the next hole and now from the backside
you’re going to take the needle that’s coming out of the first hole and go
through the second hole which is the same hole that you went through just
barely and now’s a good time to make sure you’ve got equal lengths of thread
and then you’re going to go through the next hole pull it through then you’re
going to take your other needle and go through that exact same hole again
through the backside one thing to keep in mind is you’re doing the exact same
pattern over and over and over so for me every time I send the other needle
through I’m making sure I go over top of the other thread because if you start
alternating you’re gonna get kind of a funny zigzaggy looking stitch and I’ll
show you what that looks like if you don’t have the exact same pattern so I’m
just gonna continue stitching down now I’m going to show you what it looks like
if you don’t follow the same pattern this time send my back needle underneath
of the other thread instead of over top and then go back to my original pattern
so you can get an idea of what that zigzag pattern looks like it’s a really
subtle difference but when you’re doing a really long stitch and you have one
that’s off it kind of takes away from the overall look of the the stitched
piece so now if you look from the back side you can see it’s all one level even
stitch and then you’ve got one that sinks just a little bit lower and then
it goes back up to the regular stitch line and then I’m gonna continue
stitching all the way to the end of the stitch line and now we’re going to back
stitch so it’s just like in a sewing machine you want to back stitch it to
lock your stitch in place so what you need to do is do the exact same thing
but in Reverse grab your back needle send it through the same hole and then
continue doing that for at least two and I like to do three complete stitches okay now we’ve got three complete
stitches on the front side and you could just cut it off right here and burn them
but you can also do what I’m going to show you and completely hide your final
stitch so I’m going to send the back needle through one more time so that
we’ve got three complete stitches on either side with a needle on either side
make sure I pull it nice and tight and then I’m gonna send the needle back
through but not all the way through the wallet but just in between the two
layers of leather and I’m going to take the backside needle and do the exact
same thing not going all the way through the wallet but just in between the two
layers and then you’re just going to tie a square knot and to make sure it’s
really tight you want to pull it along the line of the stitch so that you can
get that deep down in the wallet and then you’re
going to trim off the ends and then take a little lighter and just burn the edges
and this will just help keep it from fraying and unraveling and then once
you’ve got it burnt I just take one of the needles that I just cut off and I
just kind of push it in between the layers trying to flatten it out get it
down in the leather and then just kind of pinch it shut you can take a roller
and roll it shut or a soft hammer and hammer it flat and that’s how you saddle
stitch it’s pretty simple once you understand it you’ve done it a few times
it just comes really naturally and it’s a lot stronger and longer-lasting and
sewing machine stitching but it does take a little bit longer but something
small like this it’s totally worth it

12 thoughts on “HAND SEW LEATHER (HOW TO) saddle stitching & hand stitching

  1. Thanks so much for doing this step by step. Iโ€™ve watched so many YouTube videos on leathercraft but none break down how to saddle stitch – this video is awesome!

  2. An issue with things like running your stitches up through between the leather edges is, in order to do this you must clearly not have glued them down which will result in a poor edge finish if/when you decide to burnish. Personally, id rather have a small set of stitch ends visible on the inner panel in favor of glassy smooth, perfect edges

  3. A traditional saddle stitch is an angled stitch that is formed by the use of an angled pricking iron and a diamond profile awl. The purpose is to lay the stitch in a zig-zag pattern which reduces the chance of stitched tearing out.
    This video shows how to do it properly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ue3zBg0bdA

  4. But what if you need to stitch a 60" guitar strap… would it be wiser to invest in a sewing machine if you just wanna make a couple for yourself?

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