Hey, everybody it’s Margaret here with another scrap buster. Whenever I’ve shown these little baby scrap hats, I get lots of comments and questions. They’re fast and easy with no complicated decreases at the crown, but I have no actual pattern to share with you. However, I did write up a guide or “recipe” as it’s known in the yarn world, so I can show you how leftover yarn and open skeins can become practical little gifts. So, the first thing you’re going to need to do is get the pattern, or the “recipe” as I would rather call it. This is the address up here, and I’ll put the link in the description box below, but this is the blog. I’m not really a blogger, but this is where I keep any kind of written reference for anything I talk about on my channel. So if you scroll down here, it’ll say, “download this free guide Knit Baby Hat Scrap Buster,” and it will pull up this PDF that you could download or print directly from here — depends on your software and what you use, but here’s how mine works. So let’s take a minute to look and see what we’ve got here. I want to point out that most of what I use for my charity hats are worsted weight scraps. So that’s just the most common acrylic that I buy for my charity donations. So, that’s what this is written for. Of course, I usually go down a needle size or so when I get ready to read a pattern because I must knit it rather loosely. So you choose the size that’s best for you with worsted weight. I like to use magic loop for working in the round, but of course, you could use this for any of your favorite methods for working in the round. You’ll need to tape measure, ruler, tapestry needle, scissors — all typical things. Now something that’s important to note is that these here that are pictured are the six months size. So, I will give you the information based on what it took to create these hats, but you’re not limited to that size when you use this recipe. Now, I tell you down here that these used about 32 grams of the main color and then about two to three grams, depending on the design, for the contrast color. And I don’t have the weight approximation for the other sizes to share with you at this point, but when you have this base to begin with, you can guess for any other size you might be interested in knitting. Now, this right here is my guide for how many to cast on when I do a basic hat. And remember: I don’t have the person in front of me that I’m usually knitting for, so this is just a guide. I like to do my cast on numbers to be multiples of four so that I can do two by two ribbing if I so desire, but that’s not important. Whatever ribbing you choose. These are two by two, and there’s a one by one right there. It doesn’t matter. Choose whatever you like the best, but this is my little chart that I use for all my charity knitting. So then you continue on to the second page, and this is where you really get going here. You cast on the desired number of stitches, and you work your choice of ribbing for your desired width. Now these hats that I did were ten row ribbing for the six months size. Then, you’re going to knit a few rows to create a bit of space above the ribbing before the pattern. And these hats are two to three rows, and you can see that here. There’s two rows, and then the pattern begins. Two rows, the pattern begins and here, we have three rows and the pattern begins. I suggest if you do a larger size that you’re probably going to want to increase the amount of space before you begin a pattern, but again, that’s personal preference. Give it a try, see what you like. Then, it says work a pattern choice below, or use your own. I’ve included the three that I did for these pink hats right here. This little alternate one — it tells you what to do. You’re going to first, of course start at the bottom. You’re going to alternate your main color and your contrast color, back and forth, just one, one, one, one, like that. Then you do a whole row of your main color, and then this time — notice that I put it in italics — this time you’re going to alternate the contrast color first and then the main color. And that gives you this staggered appearance. And then of course, the next row is main color, and then you go back and do what you do the first row here. Very simple. And each of these is just as simple to follow. You might find a fair isle pattern — a couple of rows that you want to implement in your hat — so it’s very flexible. Then, you will knit approximately to about a half-inch to an inch below your desired hat height, and you begin these quickie decreases that I’m calling them. Approximate hat heights are included in this chart as well. You basically just have three decrease rows, so that when you pull tightly, it will close all the way. And basically, what I do is I knit one, knit two together all the way around, and then I knit two together all the way around and knit two together all the way around, and then you thread that tapestry needle, catch all the remaining stitches, and pull tightly. Now again if you’re going to do a larger size, I would probably increase this a little bit. You’d still have a gathered top, but you know, you could do knit three, then knit two together. Then your next row would be knit one, and knit two together. And then take it from here. That would just make it a little bit more slowly into the close. Another idea would be to get a hat pattern that is written for the size that you’re working on and use their decreases to get you a properly decreased hat on the top, if that’s what you want to do. I kind of like the little gathered look, especially when you put a pom on the top. But basically, that’s all there is to it. It’s pretty simple and straight forward, but please don’t hesitate to comment below if you have any questions or comments/suggestions I love to hear from you. Thanks for watching. Bye!