How to Sew a Waist Cincher Belt

How to Sew a Waist Cincher Belt


The waist cincher belt is a versatile accessory
that can be used for many styles of costumes including modern, historical, and fantasy.
It’s easy to design your own pattern and create it. For supplies, I’ll be using a quarter yard
for my main fabric, lining fabric and midweight fusible interfacing. For my main fabric, I’m
using a faux suede and the lining I’m using a cotton fabric but you can use other types
that you feel are more suitable for your costume. I’ll also be utilizing a package of plastic
boning, 2 yards of 3/8” ribbon, 20, 1/4” eyelets, plus the eyelet anvil and setter,
2 tab closures with buckle, and all purpose thread. For tools, I’ll be using my sewing machine,
iron, pins and needles, pattern paper, pencil, straight ruler, flexible tape measure, fabric
marker, sewing gauge, fabric glue and hammer. First, we’ll take some measurements. Measure
the small of your back from side to side. Then do the front abdomen side to side. Next, we’ll draft some simple patterns on
our paper. We’ll draft the back pattern first. Take your back measurement and divide
it in half. Mine was originally 15” so I’ll draw a line that’s 7 ½” in length. Decide on the height of the belt. I’m going
to say mine is 4 ½”. To this, I’m going to add 1” for seam allowance. So on each
end of my first line, I’ll draw a perpendicular line up that’s 5 ½”. Then close the top, and you’ll end up with
a rectangular pattern. This will be my back pattern, it’ll be cut on the fold and from
it I’ll need to cut 1 out of my main fabric, 1 from my lining and 1 from my fusible interfacing. Now we can move on to the front pattern pieces.
Again, I’ll take my front abdomen body measurement and divide it in half and draw a line that
length. On one side, I want it to be the same height
as the back so I’ll draw my perpendicular line that’s 5 ½”. I want the front center
of the belt to have a little more height. So on the other side, I’ll draw a perpendicular
line that’s 7”. At the top of each line, I’ll draw a squared
line that is half an inch, then connect the two ends by drawing a straight line. Then I’ll divide the pattern in half by
creating a dashed line which in turn creates a center front piece and side front piece.
I added a half inch seam allowance to each piece at the dashed line. I’m not adding
further seam allowance to any other side because the buckle tab and side ribbons will naturally
create a little bit of ease. Place the center front and side front patterns,
on each of your folded fabrics. This will give you 2 from the main fabric, lining, and
fusible interfacing when you cut them out. Apply fusible interfacing to all your lining
pieces. The bubble side of the interfacing should go to the wrong side of the lining.
Place a damp press cloth over it and apply a hot iron for about 5 seconds for each section. For the main fabric, pin the center front
to the side front, right side to right side. Do this for for the lining pieces as well. Stitch a ½” seam allowance at your sewing
machine and then press the seams open. Cut two lengths of your plastic boning that’s
the length of your seam. Remove the boning from the casing. Center the casing on the pressed open seam
of the main fabric and pin in place. Stitch on the edge of each side of the casing. On the bottom of each casing, baste at a ⅝”
seam allowance. Next take the boning and shorten it by 1 ¼”,
then carefully round each end. Return the boning to each casing till it hits
that basting stitch making sure the curve of the boning is going up towards you. Baste
as close as you can to the top of boning which will make sure the boning won’t end up in
the seam allowance. Match up each lining piece with the corresponding
main piece. They should be placed, right sides together and pinned all the way around. Put
a pair of X’d pins, about 4” apart to leave an opening. Sew a ½” seam allowance
starting at one X and then stop when you get to the second X. Don’t forget to backstitch. When you finish, trim the seams and cut off
the corners. Turn each section right side
out and press. I need to sew my opening closed. The opening which we flipped everything right side out. So I folded it under so its all on the inside there And then I pinned it so I can do a slip titch. I’m using a hand needle and thread. And I’m starting on one side here the cream side. I’m going to grab a little bit Of the brown side. You can see I’m pulling it My needle right along the edge and just grabbing a little bit. And now I’m going to go back to the other side. And grab a little bit of that fabric on the folded edge. And then go back to this side, so I’m just going to go back and forth until I’ve done it for the full length of the opening At your sewing machine, edge stitch around
the perimeter of each piece, close to the edge. Be careful not to stitch through the
boning as that might break your needle. Place your buckles on the center front. The
top buckle is 1 ½” down from the top and the bottom buckle is 1 ½” up from the bottom.
Use a little bit of fabric glue on the buckle to hold it in place. I’m going to hand stitch the buckle on by
stitching through the existing stitch lines. As an alternative, you could just add more
fabric glue. Lastly, we need to add our eyelets to the
side seams. I will use five eyelets on each end of the side front and the belt back. Each
eyelet will be a ¼” from the edge and evenly spaced. Use your fabric marker to mark the
center. Carefully, with your scissors, begin to cut
both layers of the fabric where your mark is. Cut away only enough to fit the center
of the eyelet through. The eyelet is made up of two parts. If you
look at the underside, one center is smaller than the other. The smaller center goes through
the hole from the right side to the wrong side. Place it on top of the anvil so you’re
looking at the wrong side of the belt. Then take the other side of the eyelet, the one
with the wider center and place it on top. The setter goes on top and then hammer it
until the eyelet pieces are locked in place. Repeat for all the other eyelets. The only thing left to do is to weave your
ribbon by criss-crossing it through the eyelets and tie a bow at the end. Try on your belt and you can tighten or loosen
the ribbons or buckles as necessary for a comfortable fit. Now you have a new addition to your costume. We hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Please subscribe to get notified of our weekly releases. Also, check out Professorpincushion.com to view our complete library with well over 350 sewing tutorials. If you would like to directly support us, you can check out our patreon campaign and earn some exclusive perks. Thanks for watching!

10 thoughts on “How to Sew a Waist Cincher Belt

  1. Lovely tutorial! very clear instructions 🙂 It seems a little tubular in shape, is there any way to make it a bit more hourglass? So it actually cinches in the waist a bit?

  2. I'd probably edit the pattern to look more diamond shaped in the front. But I love this tutorial. It simplifies every thing.

  3. Buckles AND laces, wow! I’m going to have to find a costume to go with this! It will be a fun addition to my “October Makes” video. I do have some leather I could use…

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