Knitting Tutorial – Knock Knock Convertible Mitts

Knitting Tutorial – Knock Knock Convertible Mitts

In this video, I’m going to run through the
techniques used in my new pattern called knock knock convertible mitts. And if you’re unfamiliar with convertible
mitts, this is a fingerless mitten that has a little pop top on it that will keep your
fingers warm. And when you need your fingers back to use
your device or pick up after a dog or whatever, you can just flip the top back and you don’t
have to take your gloves off. This pattern includes instructions for both
thumbless with an open thumb and a closed thumb. And we’ll get a close-up look at both of these
in just a moment. This is an intermediate pattern. If you haven’t used double-pointed needles,
or you haven’t knit socks before, or if you’re new to fingerless mittens and you wanna give
them a try, I’m gonna give you a link to my pattern called easy fingerless mitts. It’s a free pattern video tutorial. Give those a try first. They’re knit with a little bit thicker yarn
and then you can move on to these. These actually use sock yarn, which is really
cool because there are so many cool self-striping sock yarns out there. You can use them for something other than
socks. And I’m sure you probably have some in your
yarn closet, yarn room, wherever you’re storing yarn. If you would like to get your copy of this
pattern to follow along, just click the little “i” in the upper right hand corner to go to
my website. All the information about the yarn that you
need. I think you can get two pairs of mitts out
of one 100-gram hank of yarn. I wanna verify that because when I checked
last time, I think that was the case. And all the information about the yarns that
I’ve used here will be on my website as well as in the video description field below. The last thing I wanna say is, once you complete
these, once you finish these mitts, you will have all of the techniques down for knitting
any of my toe up socks. This little pop top part of it actually uses
German short rows just like my socks. And I have a KAM snap in here to hold the
top back and we’re going to… I’m actually gonna put that in a separate
video. And that’s coming out next week, depending
on when you’re watching it. If that video is already available, I’ll give
you a link. Just click little “i” to the “Adding Snaps
to Your Knitting” video. Anyway, I know there are like a million things
I wanna say, but I wanna be sure to give you a close-up of all this before we get started. So, up next, that’s what we’ll do. If you have your pattern and your sock yarn
and your needles, you are ready to go. You don’t have to use self-striping sock yarn
for these obviously. It’s an easy way to get a bunch of colors
in without a bunch of ends to weave in. Of course, I really like them and there are
so many to choose from. Any sock yarn that you have will do, but let’s
go and take a close-up look at the mitts. Here is my rainbow set. I actually used the extra yarn that you can
buy or sometimes comes with sock yarn. The yarn that’s for the heels and toes, the
separate color, that’s what I used for the top and bottom cuff and the little pop top
mitt. And I have a KAM snap in here. You see that? To flip it over, keep your fingers warm, and
then you just pull it back and snap it back. And the KAM snaps work well because you don’t
really need a strong snap. It’s not a lot of weight on that snap and
it’s kind of gentle on the knits. So this is the mitt style with the open thumb. And, oh, I should mention also that I have
two sizes here, for smaller and larger wrists. This is the smaller one and this is the larger. And this is the closed thumb. And we have the snaps in this one too. The choice is yours for the size you wanna
knit and whether or not you want a closed thumb. So, because this is an intermediate pattern,
I’m not going to start off with the casting on…and casting on and working on the double-pointed
needles. I’m gonna jump right into the thumb gusset. And here, obviously, I have much bigger yarn,
much thicker needles, and I’m just using an abbreviated stitch count to get through this
more quickly. So you can just watch what I’m doing. This is the beginning of my round and I’m
working this on nine-inch circulars. However you want to work them, it’s totally
up to you. I actually like to work on nine-inch circulars
for all the links of the mittens or anything that I’m working on. And then when I actually have some shaping
coming in, like the gusset shaping here. Let’s take a close-up look at the gusset. I like to switch to double-pointed needles
when I do the gusset. And this is the thumb gusset here, where we
have a line of two increases that allow for the way that our thumbs stick out from our
hands. And to achieve that, you’ll follow the pattern
and you’ll begin working increases by placing a couple of markers. And in the first round, I placed my marker
and I worked a single make one stitch, make one right or make one left, it’s up to you. And then as we work through the series of
increases, the pattern… What am I trying to say? The rows in the increase pattern, you knit
up to your first marker, slip the marker, make one left. You’re gonna pick the bar up between the two
stitches, put your needle in from front to back, and then get your needle into the back
loop of that stitch. You see how I did it? I kind of wrap the needle around the other
one and then knit through the back loop of that stitch. And then knit up to the next marker, in this
case, it’s just one stitch. I’m gonna do a make one right. So I pull up the yarn between the two, put
my left needle in from back to front, and I’m gonna knit through the front loop of this
stitch. And I’m gonna work the increase pattern rows
and next time I come up to an increase round, I will do a make one left, knit up to the
marker, make one right, and then knit the rest of the way around. And just that little thing ends up giving
you a beautiful gusset that fits your thumb. It’s pretty standard for all mitten patterns
to do a gusset like that. Okay. So, once we do that, you follow the pattern
and you’re going to end up with something not nearly this big. Of course not. With lots of stitches between and the different
sizes have different numbers of stitches between. But these too obvious increased lines. And what you’re going to do here, we’re going
to pretend at this point that I’m finished knitting the thumb gusset. I need to reserve these stitches. So, I’m at my beginning of my round here. I’m just gonna knit up to the thumb gusset. And in this case, I’m on double-pointed needles. I think it’s easier to work the increases
on double-pointed needles… And I don’t mind double-pointed needles. I’m trying to get more people to fall in love
with double-pointed needles. So, I knit up to the first marker. I can take that marker out. I have a tapestry needle ready with some scrap
yarn and I’m just going to slide all of these stitches on to the tapestry needle and the
yarn. So those are reserved. Those are going to wait for us to come back
to them. Now I’m going to do a backwards loop cast
on because we’re going to start knitting these together. We’re gonna go from here to here. We want just one stitch cast on between the
two where the thumb stitches were removed. So I’m gonna take my yarn, wrap it around
my thumb once, and get my needle in there and tighten it. And that’s a backwards loop cast on. It’s not a great cast on stitch, it’s a good
cast on stitch for just adding little things like this. Let me do this one more time for you. I’ve got my working yarn. My thumb’s on the yarn. Twist my thumb forward, put my needle in there
and tighten it up. Okay. And then knit the rest of the way around. You can see those thumb stitches are just
gonna wait there for you to come back to them. And regardless of the kind of needles that
you like to use for knitting in small circumferences like this, I do recommend double-pointed needles
for knitting the thumb. When you finish the rest of the mitten, come
back to the thumb. Double-pointed needles are actually easier
when you have so few stitches. But in this case, we are going to just finish… Excuse me. Finish knitting up the hand and stockinette
and then knit the ribbing at the top. And I’ll tell you, it’s really up to you how
long you wanna knit this. I personally like fingerless mitts to hit
me just below my knuckles. Maybe that’s a little longer than some people
like them. Maybe you like them down here. Keep in mind that you’re going to be putting
the convertible top on. So if they’re a little bit higher, you will
have a less of a gap between the… Well, you’re not gonna have a gap. It overlaps quite a bit, but the more you
have, the less chance there is that cold air is going to come in, if you make them a little
bit higher. Anyway, I’m sure you can figure that out. Next up, we are going to do the convertible
top. And again, this is the way that you make socks. Coming up. We’re ready to get started with the convertible
top. And again, this is just like knitting a lot
of my toe up socks patterns. If you have knit my toe up sock patterns before,
you probably don’t need this part of the tutorial. But if you have knit this and you’re excited
to try some socks, if you click the little “i” in the upper right hand corner to go to
my website, on my website, I will have a couple, maybe a few examples. No, how many? I’ll have more than one example of sock patterns
that use this exact technique because you’ll probably be excited to knit some socks next,
if you haven’t done that yet. We’re gonna use a provisional cast on and
German short rows to do the shaping and the top of the mitt. So let’s go ahead and get started. Okay. For this, I need a crochet hook and some scrap
yarn. I always use worsted weight yarn regardless
of the weight of yarn that I’m knitting with. It’s just easier. You don’t really have to know how to crochet
to do this. I don’t know why I’m starting my slipknot
way down there. It’s like I think I’m doing a long tail cast
on. Okay. So I’ve got my slipknot. I’m going to tie a little knot in the yarn
here by my slipknot. So that I can tell which end is the slip knot
end because that’s going to make a difference. And I like to get a few chain stitches there. So this is how we’re gonna do the provisional
cast on. You wanna set the knitting needle on the yarn,
reach the crochet hook over and pull that through the loop on the hook, then pull the
yarn back behind the needle, reach the crochet hook over and pull it through. [00:12:50]
[silence] [00:13:12] And you’ll just do this for as many times… You’ll cast on the number that the pattern
tells you for the size that you’re knitting. And then I’m going to chain a few stitches
again, and then, oh no. Cut this yarn and then pull that last loop
through. You don’t have to tighten it too crazy because
we are going to come back to it. And then I’m gonna start with my actual sock
yarn. In this case, it’s worsted weight yarn left
over from my tapestry kit. I’m going to knit across these stitches… And I’m just doing a real abbreviated little
top here for you with just a few stitches. And then purl back across. And the provisional cast on is giving us a
way to retrieve live stitches from the cast on, so that we get a seamless top. Okay. We’re all set up and now we’re going to start
the German short rows. The pattern gives you the exact numbers to
knit for the size that you’re knitting, but I can just tell you on this first one, we’re
gonna knit all the way to the end… And now I’m gonna turn the work and I’m gonna
do the German short row technique here. I’m gonna slip that stitch from the left needle
to the right and then pull up on that stitch and pull the yarn forward between the two
needles. And that gives you a funny double stitch,
it’s exactly what you want. And you pull it forward between the two needles
so that we can purl across this row. And we’re gonna purl all the way to the end. Turn the work. I want my working yarn in front for this because
I’m on the knit side. I’m gonna slip that stitch, pull up on that
stitch. It gives me another funny double stitch. It’s not quite the same looking as the last
one, but I’m going to knit across. It’s a funny double stitch but they’re…depending
on which side of the work you’re on, they look a little different from each other. I’m gonna knit up to the second-to-last stitch,
turn my work. I’m on the purl side, so my working yarn is
already in front. I’m gonna slip that stitch from the left needle
to the right, pull up on it, yarn forward so my work is in front so that I can purl… To the second-to-last stitch. Turn the work. I’m on the knit side, I want my working yarn
in front, slip that stitch, give it a tug, and then knit…to the third, to the last
stitch. We’re gonna do this one more time on both
sides. Turn the work. My working yarn’s already in front, so I’ll
slip that stitch from the left to the right, give it a tug, yarn forward, and purl. Turn the work, yarn forward, slip the stitch,
give it a tug. Okay. We’ve finished the first half of our little
mitten top. Now we’re going to go back and deal with those
German short row stitches that we left. So I’m going to knit up to the first double
stitch. And again, the pattern gives you exact stitch
numbers. Knit up to the first funny double stitch. Knit those two funny double stitches together
as one and the next one. Turn the work and we’re going to work a German
short row here, just like we have been, and then purl up to the first funny double stitch. Purl those two halves together and the next
one, turn the work. I’m gonna work a German short row here. So, yarn forward, slip the stitch, give it
a tug, knit up to the next funny double stitch. Knit those two halves together, and the next
one. Work a GSR here, purl them together, and the
next one. One more GSR. We just have one left, so we’re gonna knit
those two together, turn the work. I always like to slip this stitch here and
then purl up to my last funny double stitch and purl those two together. Okay. You can see the shape that we have here. Definitely shaped knitting and now we wanna
get these live stitches or these reserved stitches live again. So find the end of your yarn that does not
have a knot in it because over here, there’s a knot. This was my slip end. I want the non slip knot end. And I’m gonna pull that out so I can unravel
this. I’ve got a needle ready in my hand, ready
to go, to pick these stitches up. The first stitch is always wonky. The yarn runs right through it. So I’m gonna get my needle in there and then
pull that out. There we go. And then from here, the rest of them are a
lot easier. The reason we used a different color scrap
yarn is to make this easier to see. You see, I have this green V and then the
rust color yarn, or I think this is actually called papaya Heather, papaya color yarn coming
out at the top of it. I wanna put my knitting needle under the right
leg of the green V, my sock color, my yarn, my sock yarn. And then I can do it on the next one and the
next one. If you’ve seen me do this before, I like to
collect a few and then give the provisional cast-on a tug. I’m gonna put half of these stitches on one
double-pointed needle and half on a second. And I know I just cast on 10 so that was all
of them. I promised your mitten top will be bigger
than this. So now I’m ready to work on the round again. I have all the stitches live and I can start
working in the round, just all knit stitches, so that I get a little top like this. You’ll work following the pattern. You’ll work in the round and then finish up
with rib. And I’ll tell you, the exact length of the
pop top is going to depend on how long your fingers are. So, try on your mitten and you can actually
take the pop top when it’s, you know, not sewn on yet, and give it a try and see… Put it over the top of your hand and see how
much longer you want to make it. And then when you’re binding this off, the
instructions that I give you are to do a regular bind off on half and a stretchy bind off on
half. And you will sew down the regular bind off
side to the mitten. And if you’re using self-striping yarn, it’s
pretty sweet because you can see exactly where to stitch down. You don’t have to worry about stitching it
down crooked or something because you have this perfect line of what to follow. And so you want the non stretchy side, you
just set your mitten out perfectly, and then set it down and then just follow along…one…a
stripe, you know, that was the easiest thing for me to do. And all I did here was every other stitch,
I just whip stitched it down with a tapestry needle and the same color of yarn. Nothing fancy. I’m not great at sewing or anything. It’s just a little seam there. And there isn’t a lot of pressure on it or
anything, so it’s pretty simple. And then I’ve got the snaps here and we’re
gonna talk more about those. That’s really all there is to it. And there are different options for how or
if you even want to secure the top down to the back of the hand. But I’m going to put in a separate video,
putting KAM snaps in to something like this and how I’ve done this. And if that video is already available, then
I will put a link to it, and just click a little “i” in the upper right hand corner. And if it’s not available yet, it’ll be next
Wednesday. I’ll release the video. So that is it for that knock knock convertible
mitts. I hope they keep your hands warm. Good luck. [silence]

15 thoughts on “Knitting Tutorial – Knock Knock Convertible Mitts

  1. I've just done one pair of these for my little daughter (6) before video was released. She's complaining that top slips too easily. Have you got any advice what is the best row to sew the top on?

  2. Backward loop cast on trick: Often when you cast on stitches between needles then go to knit them, you'll have an extra bar / bit of looseness between the previously knitted stitches and the cast on, regardless of how tightly you pull. My trick is to cast on 2 fewer sts using the backwards loop cast on than the pattern specifies. Knit around, then when you get to the extra long bar, twist the additional looseness the same way you would with a M1 & knit at the beginning and end of the cast on. Makes it a much snugger join!

  3. I'm excited to start these mittens!! I have the perfect self-striping yarn with matching a contrast mini skein to use that I have been saving for the right project. Question…couldn't one use Judy's Magic Cast-On instead of the provisional?

  4. I’m a rather new knitter and was struggling with DPN’s. I watched your review of flexi flips by Addi and after knitting my first sock, I am a lot more comfortable with DPN’s, and I’m practicing with scrap yarn. I have my second sock going and it looks a lot better. Thank you Staci

  5. Can you do this in DK/Sport?! I really like DK/Sport. ( Which your toe up GSR socks turned me into)

  6. My yarn is all packed away for a move Staci. I love double pointed needles, was on a sock frenzy last year. When I eventually find a home, how comforting to pick them up again and make your Knock Knock Convertible Mitts…catchy name.

  7. At 7:45, "I'm trying to get more people to fall in love with Double Pointed Needles." Chalk one up to your mission, Staci. I learned to knit from your pattern and tutorial video that used DPNs and — I agree with you — there are some things that just feel easier when using them. 🙂

  8. I, OTOH, really dislike DPNs. Just when I’m getting into a rhythm I have to juggle needles. I far prefer Magic Loop for knitting in the round and this pattern will surely adapt. The only exception is Knitted Knockers. I love all your videos and patterns. Nobody on the internet is as effective a teacher as you, Staci. Thanks!

  9. Loving this Knock Knock pattern so far. I’ve been doing thumb gussets backwards, always wondered why I had a line of small holes on both sides. Your way is better, thanks!

  10. Thank you! You're great, as you are allways since I know your avideos! Everyone can understand you and can follow your instruction. I made this very similar to yours, but I didn't find a clip and so I needed anether Idear. i took a Velcro but I'll change it soon! The velcro wants to felt the yarn and I don't want that , in no option! So thanks again! I knit sinch 1977 andestill I'm learning! Be blessed and please go on!

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