Lesson 24 – Pedal Pusher Capri and Fisherman’s Pant Pattern Transformation

Lesson 24 – Pedal Pusher Capri and Fisherman’s Pant Pattern Transformation

Hi there! Today we’re going to learn how
to convert your basic pant pattern into capris or fisherman’s pants. If you want to learn how to make a basic
pant pattern click on the link below to go to my “How to Draft a Basic
Pant” video. There are written instructions there
as well. The basic pant of course is very high waisted because it’s a
basic pant and it goes up to your belly button. is very high waisted because it’s a
basic pant and it goes up to your belly button. I know the people today don’t use
these high waisted pants anymore – – although, if they want a sailor look
they might – so, the first thing we can do is lower the waistband. I know that’s the number one thing
most you are going to want to do to the basic pant pattern. So you’ll lower it
depending….. each person has their own taste. It’ll be two to three inches down – you
know – lower or five to eight centimeters and of course this is a very small version a pattern and so I’m not going to lower it THAT much here but let’s say the equivalent in this size (to scale) in the size of my pattern. So let’s lower it say…… …..let’s pretend it’s three inches.
I don’t know how to do the actual scale….. But whatever you do to this side of the pant pattern – so here
for example on this scale I’m doing it
one-and-a-half centimeters or the equivalent in inches. Please do the math. You’ll take it from that top point, that top corner, to however long you want
it. Do the exact same measurement here, on the dart. Using the dart as your guide. So the same amount that you decide to
lower your pant pattern and then use this other corner and on your pant pattern you’ll have a straight
line and then that curvy line that we did. Just use the straight line that’s there as your guide. Sorry, I can’t really see…. I’m trying to stay out….. of the way of the camera. So see there you’ve got your points and just draw the line. I’m gonna try to do this video without
editing. so this is where you’re going to be
be cutting. I just do it as a dotted line so you can see but
you’ll be cutting that. You know, you’re keeping that same sloped angle. The same over here. Here we don’t have a dart to use as a
guide for the middle but…. also the same exact measurement that you
lowered here you’re gonna do here so…. for my scale…. I’m using 1.5 cms It may not be exactly the correct amount in life-sized but same over here. And here you just have these two. So
that’s how to lower the waistband. Alright so when you cut it, you’ll cut here. Now if you want to make it into a capri….. ….with most pants actually …..you’ll take in the knees a little bit so move in one centimeter – or half an inch on the life-size
one. Just right along this line go in the measurement so here’s one, here’s the other…. Whatever measurement you’ve decided. You don’t want to go TOO far in because it will bee too tight in the knee. Or maybe you want it that way, like for bellbottoms. One centimeter of a half inch in. Same on this side. Now, remember here you are using the outer line this is the outside so that’s where you’re
going to be measuring in the half centimeter. Then here, capris are short you know, I’m just shortening them
without taking them in. If you want hip hugging….. ….I guess they’re called pedal pushers when
they’re tight around your knees (sic. calves) but I’m just moving up from the hemline. About 15 centimeters or six inches up. You’ll just move up accordingly. and that’s where you’ll cut that off, So….. you know again in the life-sized version
it would be fifteen centimeters or six inches that you moved up. I’ve already made the marks from before so I’m being careless about it, I’m just kind of demonstrating but you’ll measure very carefully the exact amount – and then that’s the cutting line there. Where are my scissors? I should be more prepared for these videos. One moment. I’ve got to go find my
scissors and then I’ll show you where to cut. There we go. OK….. Oh! Before we cut of course you have to then draw the line so the capri since you you’ve moved it in a
little bit take it from the crotch and just draw that cutting line. It’ll be slightly in. And from the other side you take it from the hip where you are going to draw the new line. This is the hip. You take it in there. Hmm…… Same on this side from the hip to the point that you marked…..ummm…. So here…..take it from the crotch to the point you marked over here. Am I still filming? OK good. Now not to be confused with
this line, although here it’s looking very close to this…. this first line but that’s actually…. you
know…. just ignore this line. You’re going to be doing your own straight line. Of course if you have a square ruler
that would be best. I don’t have a small square ruler. Straight down. And here also….. straight down. I’ve taken this in just…… I’ve just taken it up. I’ve just taken up the hem. You may decide you want even closer to
the ankle and in that case you’ll move in along this line as far as you’d like to go. Like if you want it really close to your ankle. This is more like those fishermen pants. They’re loose around your calves. if you want them tight against your calf then
you would move this line in even more. So you see what I’m saying? There, for like capri pants. Same over here, but the important thing
is that you do the exact same amount on all the
measurements. Now we’re going to cut. So…… just cut the the new lines. So here’s
the waistline which we’ve lowered. Here’s where we cut off the hem. Right here. Or if you want the pedal pushers you’d move that in more. You’d have a different line. Here you’ll cut as normal. The crotch line. Here you’ll cut as normal. The crotch line. The reason I’m looking so clumsy is that I’m trying to stay out of the way of the camera and try to keep this on camera. I may come up with a better plan. Here’s the line that we just drew, where we’ve gone in to the knee. So it’s the second line, be careful not
to confuse your lines. There….. and then – I forgot to draw the lines
down – but this would be whatever line you’ve decided to keep here. If it’s a pedal pusher you would have drawn your line – you would have marked the point. Let’s pretend it was here and then you would have drawn the line there. Okay? Or if you just going to keep these
fishermen tight pants – which is what my plan was – then just cut straight. Pattern making is very mathematical. This is really for more advanced people so if you don’t understand what I’m
doing you’ll need to just watch all my lessons from lesson 1. Okay? Just so I don’t make these videos so
long explaining all the details each time. By the time you gotten to this level your a pretty good…you at least have a good understanding of the pattern
making process and of organically designing as well. So that’s your front. OH! Okay, as far as
the back, we have a little piece – you notice – we have a little piece of
the dart. We have a little piece of the dart left – so in that case you can just take off the same amount
that’s left of the dart. You measure it and whatever that measurement is just take it off from the side. They should match. Once you’ve made your alterations to a pattern you then have to put it on to another piece of paper to create the cutting pattern which is
merely tracing the current pattern… this one way to do it….and then… I’m just doing it very informally here….. so for example you do this….you trace……
pretend I’m doing it neatly…… you trace the pattern very neatly onto
another piece of paper exactly the same as you made the
alteration. And then, at that point you add your seam allowances. There’s another issue you’ll address
when you’re making your cutting pattern. You’ve traced this…. you’ve put in the seam allowances…. but now you’ve got to address the hem. If it’s a straight pair of pants that’s easy. but now you’ve got to address the hem. If it’s a straight pair of pants that’s easy. you just make it as long as you’re
planning to hem it. Just add a little extra so you
make the hem. Now if they’re capris….. if they were capris for example you would have to make the hem a
mirror image. Because when you fold it over….so for
example…. pretend these are capris now, the hem, you can’t just make it straight down
like that because when you try to hem it this part
will be too small to hem back up here so for a capri hem….let me get rid of all this…. it would be a mirror image of however far up you want to hem it. So if we were making capris they would actually be like this (the hem). So as long as you want your hem to be make it a mirror image what’s above it. I mean…I’m doing it very roughly but….. so it would look kinda funny. The capris would look like this You see? Or if you were making bell bottoms same thing. Bell bottoms would actually be the inverted. The hem would get smaller because you’ve
got to fold it up inside the pant and it has to be the same width as
whatever part it’s going to be sewn to when you fold it over. So I hope that makes sense. Okay? So here we go. Here is my base pattern . So here’s the front base pattern and here is my cutting pattern. I made the margins blue so that you can see that I’ve added a margin and you’ll notice. So you’re cutting pattern is always going to be a little bit larger based on your margins…uh…seam allowances than the base pattern. See? It’s a
little bit larger. Okay, here I’m making the waistline…. here I am making the waistband as you
can see. Kinda do this and leave it a little longer then the pants, like that to get a rough idea. Now you’ll have to straighten it out as you
go. I mean, you could actually make it into two pieces and then it would fit more perfectly. I may just do that using a square ruler. You can make a two piece waistband but you’ll have to sew it together. It would fit more properly. Or you can just sort of….if you
want to just to be one waistband looping around…….you know sometimes you
can put this part in the back and cover it with a belt
loop so it’s not noticeable. You won’t see that cut in the waistband.
But if you do decide you want just one waistband going all around you’ll have to
improvise at that point and it won’t fit quite as well. You kind of straighten it out a little bit. as you go. But it’s definitely gonna
fit more perfectly if you’re willing to cut it here because you’ve got to cut this
piece on a fold if you want it to be a full waistband. So this is where you start to use you
designer’s instinct and organically create the waistband that best suits what you’re trying to
achieve. Now there’s one more thing we’ll need, in the front which I forgot to mention.You need
the zipper fly. You can go ahead and make it with this. Just decide the shape. Usually they’re just
rectangular. So you could sew it on as a separate piece or you’ll notice on your blue jeans or most of your pants it’s not actually a separate piece. The
actual pattern piece is made larger and the zipper fly is extra long here because you’re going to fold it over. So let’s not forget the zipper fly. If you don’t add the zipper fly to your
pattern you are going to end up with a pair pants like
this. It’s OK for pajama pants or lycra pants where you would just sew that closed so then that will be fine because they stretch to pull on or
pajama pants would be baggier so to just slip them on you don’t need a zipper or button fly but for blue jeans you’ll have to add to the
pattern piece the extra zipper fly. Thanks for watching!

3 thoughts on “Lesson 24 – Pedal Pusher Capri and Fisherman’s Pant Pattern Transformation

  1. Hi Fettuccinetube, how are you?, love your videos. You're very beautiful and talented and have a great body, gorgeous arms, breasts, hips and bellybutton. Hope you make some more videos soon, take care and have a great day.

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