Sewing for Beginners, Sew the Shirt Part 4

Sewing for Beginners, Sew the Shirt Part 4

How to sew a classic shirt Sewing for Beginners Sewing tutorials supported by
Membership Sewing Pattern Sales and Fan Funding Part 4 – Sewing up the Shirt In this video I show you how to sew and neaten
seams How to make a button band To machine baste and how to sew and turn the
collar Before you do any stitching it’s essential
to do a test run on some spare pieces of fabric So don’t throw the little bits away Use a new machine needle each time you start
a new garment and decide at this stage how to finish your
seams As this is a tutorial aimed at novice sewers I shall stick to a standard seam with the
seam allowance finished with a zigzag which will look wonderful Later you may like to do a French Seam where
the seam allowance is encased There are many other options We start with the two shirt fronts Iron the button band facing to the wrong side
of each shirt front Take note that as marked on the pattern there is no seam allowance on this edge Fold and press the button band to the inside
and then fold again The double fold should be 1″ wide Machine tack the fold in place That’s done The machine tacking will keep our button band
folded until we are ready to do the button holes
and sew on the buttons The next job is to join the fronts to the
back at the shoulder seams, rights sides together So here we have our shirt back Match the seam line and pin carefully silk is slippery so use lots of pins When you are matching seams, it is easier to
do it on a flat surface rather than on your lap or at the sewing machine When pinning seems prior to machining always pin at right-angles and avoid using
glass headed pins as the large head stops the pin from laying
flat Machine slowly, this is couture not factory
sewing Our shoulder seams are done and next we are going to put our collar together I touched on the fact earlier that I wasn’t
sure whether to interface both collar pieces After making the collar up, I decided I wanted
it to be softer so I cut another two collars As I was short of fabric I took a chance and cut two collars on the
crosswise grain I can get away with it this time as it hardly
makes a difference with this pattern Mostly, it is not a good idea, even on plain
fabrics as there is often a subtle difference in shading I’m certainly making the most of this yardage So we have cut two new pieces and we have
interfaced just one This is the top collar and this one is the
under-collar I now need to join these collar pieces right
sides together I shall probably utilise this spare collar
in some way Maybe finish it with a band and attach it
to a sweater then I’ll have a spare shirt! So we are going to pin all the way round the
collar Again, use lots of pins This sort of collar is not just for shirts Once mastered this technique is the same with or without the collar band for dresses, jackets, coats even pyjamas Pinning is complete We can take it to the machine to stitch all
the way around the outside edge of the collar That is the outside collar seam stitched and
the pins removed The secret to producing the perfect collar
is to trim the seam in layers to take a stitch across the angle of the point
rather than a single sharp turn and to adequately clip the outside curve ready
for turning through So this is the under collar and this will
be the top collar So trim the seams carefully trimming the layers
at different widths Just a little difference is enough to avoid
the ridge that the seam would otherwise make This may not seem important with this thin
fabric but get used to doing it and it will make
a big difference when you are sewing with something thicker This technique is called Grading the Seam
Allowance Keep your fabric shears just for fabric if
you want to keep them sharp Paper blunts them much more quickly Then trim the corners across the mitre like
this You are getting rid of as much fabric as you
dare without risking the fabric fraying So that’s one cut across the corner and then
take another cut across the two new angles To within an ⅛” of the stitching
should be safe but for a loose weave you would need to be
more cautious The concave curve of the collar needs to be
clipped to reduce bulk when the collar is turned through as shown
here A final bit of neatening before we turn the
collar through Turn your collar through carefully, using
a not too sharp point to ease out the corners Take your time and you will have a perfect
result Just carefully ease without force You don’t want to break through the stitching A fat wooden knitting needle is ideal as it’s
not that sharp Take your time to encourage the seam out It may be obvious but always work with clean
hands Especially when you are manipulating the fabric
in this way When you finish, your garment will still be
fresh as if newly laundered Again, don’t forget that your iron is a valuable tool for making fabric do what you want it to do rather than the other way around But obviously, keep your fingers out of the
way With your iron carefully ease out the seam Your aim is to encourage the seam to fall
towards the under collar to hide it from view Be conscious of the iron temperature I have mine set at the lowest for steam You don’t want to risk scorches If you’re unsure have a spare piece of your
fabric handy and keep testing Pin the open seam together and then tack all round the collar to keep it in place until the shirt is finished The next step is to attach the collar to the
collar band Preparing the Collar Band is the topic of
the next viedeo This easy PDF Shirt Pattern can be purchased
from my site and of course it is one of the many Sewing
Patterns included with Membership Join for everything or Shop for individual
patterns For news of up and coming videos please Subscribe to our Channel Thank you very much for watching

5 thoughts on “Sewing for Beginners, Sew the Shirt Part 4

  1. Hi, sis, i am impressed by the way, you explain the things,,, i have become ur fan. when r u uploading tutorials for mens classic shirt and pant pls.

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