Tutorial 21 Beginning Sewing Series Make it Sew – How to sew Pockets by Sure-Fit Designs™

Tutorial 21 Beginning Sewing Series Make it Sew – How to sew Pockets by Sure-Fit Designs™


Hi Everyone. Welcome to Make it Sew, a
Beginner Sewing Series with Sure-Fit Designs. I’m Glenda, sometimes referred to
as Glenda the Good Stitch. In this particular lesson we’re going to talk
about pockets, pocket styles and the easiest one for beginners. Let’s take a
look at some of the pocket styles that you’ll see in our garments. As we take a
look at this blouse right here this particular pocket is called a single
welt pocket and what you’re going to see here is a rectangular opening and that’s
where your hand goes in and this diagonal piece of fabric right here,
that’s called the welt and it’s filling the opening. We also can have
double welt pockets and this is an example on these white pants that I’ve
just recently sewn, and there you see the two welts. There’s the top lip and the
bottom lip filling the rectangular slot for the hand. And let’s take a look at an
actual colorful sample of that where you can see more of the the pieces. These, the
dark blue are the welts, the double welts that are filling the rectangular slot
where the hand goes in of course that molds the body of the garment and the
beige in the inside that’s the pocket bag. Now where you’ll find directions for
doing the double welt pocket is in my blog http://surefitdesigns.blogspot.com/ The single welt and the double welt pocket actually are
a little bit more on the intermediate to advanced level, so let’s take a look at
another style of pocket. On these pants I have what I call the wedge angle or
slant angle pocket. There’s the side seam on the pants and if you just look about
an inch inside there you’ll see this edge right here and that’s the pocket
opening and of course the pocket bag is on the inside. And you’ll also see that
on these Culottes that I have right here. Let me turn the mannequin a little bit
and see if you can see this. I know the patterned fabric, the Paisley makes it a
little bit difficult. There’s the seam allowance coming down
the side and over about one inch there’s the opening right here and your hand
goes in like that, so again an example of a wedge or a slant angle pocket. On this
jacket now, what I’m showing you is called an inseam pocket and so if we
take a look at the side seam of the jacket, you’re going to see this little
peekaboo of lining fabric right here. Well that’s actually the pocket bag that
is inside the jacket, and of course I did line the jacket with a contrasting
fabric, so it’s all coordinated here. If this inseam pocket hadn’t been done in
the actual exterior garment fabric then it would be black in there and of course
you would likely not see it, but right now that little bit of lining is peeking
through and at any rate that’s the inseam pocket. Complete directions for
sewing the inseam pocket are found in the Sure-Fit Designs Pants Kit
Instruction Book. And then we’ll take a look at some jeans here and here is a
jean style of pocket, up at the top right here, and sometimes this can be a Western
shape angular, or it can be a scoop shape like this, and this little pocket right
here that’s called the coin pocket and complete directions for doing the Jean
style of pocket and where it can be attached to the zipper card so it kind
of gives you like a girdle effect in the front which holds the tummy in, this
these instructions will be found in our DVD called Jeans Behind the Scenes. And
now we come to a little bit easier pocket and that’s the patch pocket and
that’s what I’m going to focus on in this series,of course for a beginners.
This is a variation of a patch pocket, it’s just instead of the opening being
at the top, it’s at an angular side here and instead of the facing going to the
inside, like is traditional which is what I will show you, my facing is going to
the outside and I did that particularly because that’s the reverse side of this
quilty fabric and I wanted to trim the jacket that way. But in essence that’s
just a big patch that’s laid on top of the jacket front. And now we’ll take a
look at this shirt and this is your traditional patch pocket that is laid
right on the the front of the shirt. You can actually do a patch pocket for like
a jacket if you want to, or you could put a patch pocket on the back of your jeans.
This is where traditionally the facing for the pocket is turned to the inside
and you may or may not be able to see this, I’ll get the camera in real close
here, but the stitching to hold this pocket on is reinforced at a diagonal
wedge right here and I’ll actually be showing you how to do that. So now let’s
take a look at the patch pocket and how easy this is for beginners. I’ve got some
samples over here and the patch pocket can have different finishes at the
bottom of the pocket. So here’s a rounded edge, here’s your square edge which has
mitered corners on the inside and I’ll talk about that, and here’s an angular
corner on the pocket and all of them have the traditional facing turn to the
inside. So let’s take a look at that on this sample. One of the things that
you’re going to see as I turn this sample over, in fact if I was to turn
them all over, the pocket itself has been interfaced and this is a creamy white
fabric normally I would interface that with white, but because I wanted you to
be able to see it real well I took a big interfacing. Notice with the interfacing
that I have interfaced only up to the seam allowance. All the seam allowances
of the interfacing have been cut off, and the reason for that is so that when you
start folding your seams in to finish off the raw edges that that interfacing
isn’t going to create more bulk in here. And this is the facing of the pocket and
what you’re going to see that I’ve done here is pre-press the facing. I’ve turned
over a quarter of an inch at the top and gave it a light press and then where
the little clips are right here and right here, that’s saying that that’s
where the facing fold line is, so that ultimately is going to come to the
inside, but we want it nice and neat on the edges, so what you’re going to do is
with the facing pre-pressed with this top fold and the fold on the crease line
or the fold line of the facing, turn this over so that you’re looking at the right
side and now you’re going to fold that facing right side to right side. And let
me just put my little half eyes on here because I’m going to be stitching
and I need to see what I’m doing. So right on that fold line I’m going to
fold over like this and I’m going to put a pin right here, and then I’ll do the
same thing on the other side and get that pinned. So basically again, what
I said I was doing was right side to right side and now I’m going to stitch
from the top edge of that folded line all the way down and then across and all
the way back up. So I’m going to start with a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Because
it’s the top of the fold, I will back stitch this. I’m going to show you a
really easy way to make sure you get a real 90 degree angle here. I’m going all
the way down and of course I’m sewing in a contrasting color of thread. You
wouldn’t be doing this in our in a regular finished garment. We’ll lift
that up, clip it off and then I’m going to come across the bottom at
5/8 of an inch and now I could have pivoted at this that corner, but in
order to make sure I’ve got a perfect 90 degree angle there to mitre this, that’s
why I wanted to stop my stitching, pull it out and start again. And now I’m going
to come up the other side. And so I’m not only marking where I’m going to fold
this and fold those raw edges in, I’m also incorporating the facing up at the
top. And we’ll get to this point and just keep on going and I will back stitch
right there.
Okay, now I’m going to turn this facing to the
inside, but before I do I want to do some trimming and grading, and I have taught
you that in a previous lesson, but I’m going to start right here. I’m going to
trim it like this and I’ll trim just that top piece. And then I’m going to
trim it like this and then I’m going to grade this shorter one right here and
cut that down, and then I’m going to angle the corner. And so that reduces the
bulk for when I turn that facing to the inside. I’ll do that one more time. I’m
going to trim down by about half. I’m going to take just the top one and
finish it off, cutting it. The reason I’m not cutting this under one quite so low
is because I want to make sure that there’s enough of this seam allowance to
turn inside so it ends up being nice and smooth in there. And then I’m going to
grade one edge and clip at a diagonal. Now we can take this and turn it to the
inside and don’t forget your point
turner Again, I’ve shown you this before. Use it to go right into the points of
the facing fold up at the top and I’ve got two beautiful points up there. Now,
you will take this to your ironing board and you’re going to press this long edge
and press this long edge and then you’re going to press this edge up and we’ll
come back and talk about mitering that in just a moment. And now what you want
to do is stitch across the top to hold that facing down. If we take a look at
the right side of all of these I’ve stitched across the top to hold the
facing down in place. So we’ll go to the sewing machine now and when the width of
any facing is wider than what the markings are in your throat plate, always
remember that you can use this little strip of painter’s tape there and I’m
stitching very close to the folded edge of that facing and I likely will back
stitch this just one or two stitches and stitching right across that facing.
And backstitch at the end and there the facing has now been top stitched.
Okay now let’s take a look at how to miter these corners. We’ll take a look at
this actual sample right here and here as I mentioned earlier you’re going to
press the long edges in to the inside that’s another reason it’s nice to have
your 5/8 inch marking right here so that it gives you a nice crisp guideline for
turning those seam allowances inside and then once you’ve got the long edges
turned in, open them out and turn the short edge in so that it looks like that.
Then what you’re going to do at the corner is take the corner of the pocket
and you’re going to take it, fold it diagonally to the inside so that this
folded edge right here that fold or crease line,that’s going to line up with
the stitching or your crease line on the long edge of the pocket and that crease
right there is going to line up with this stitching line. So as I fold it in,
that is a 45 degree angle right here and then you fold the long seam allowance
over and then the short one up and it forms a perfect miter and you can see
that with this striped fabric that it’s forming exactly the way it’s supposed to.
And so that’s how you finish off a nice neat corner on a square pocket. And let’s
take a look at this blue one because that’s got some angles on it, so on the
inside how this one was pressed was I took the angular piece, I press that up
first and then and I did that on both corners, press that piece up first, then
you fold the long edge of the seam allowance in and in and press it and
then that short edge up and press it. So again, you’ve got that beautifully formed
angle at the bottom of that pocket. Now when you’re doing
a curved pocket that gets a little bit trickier. Here again I’ve stitched the
5/8 inch seam allowance edge all the way around
and again, it’s it’s a really beneficial thing to do that because it
gives you that marker to help you get it absolutely perfect going all the way in.
Again, if you are using the same color of thread then if any of it showed, well it
wouldn’t be very visible. Now to get your curved edges of your pocket in what you
need to do is put in long basting stitches and that’s what these are right
here. So basting again is the longest stitch length your machine will go. My
machine goes up to six millimeters long, yours might only go up to five
millimeters long, but halfway in the middle of that seam allowance and you
can see that I’ve started the basting right about where the curve begins all
the way up to the other side and then you just gently pull your basting up to
ease the fullness of that curve into the inside of the pocket, so when it’s turned
over, those are my basting threads, when it’s turned over you get a really lovely
curve on the curved corners of your pocket. Now let’s take a look at how to
attach this pocket on to the garment and I should say this, when you are sewing a
pocket onto your garment, this is a step that you’ll want to do when the garment
pieces are still one dimensional. So in some of the other videos I showed you
how to do darts and pleats and tucks and they are all done when the garment is
flat, nothing else has been added to it, no shoulder seams or side seams have
been sewn. Well it’s the same with a pocket you want to add it when the
pattern piece is flat and not been joined to something else because as soon
as it becomes three-dimensional then it becomes more challenging to set
something like this in place. So this square pocket is going to sit right here
and we’ll just get this pinned in place. And so this could be like the breast pocket on the front of a blouse or a shirt or a hip
pocket. Now what we want to do is that diagonal reinforcement stitching that’s
at the top of the facing where the pocket adjoins to the garment and in
order to show you how to do that I’ve got this handy little diagram here that
shows you where to begin and where to end and let’s just follow along here.
Number one begin here. Stitch up like this. Pivot, stitch two, now across and then
you’re going to pivot and then number three you’re going to stitch all the way
down the side of the pocket and four is stitch across the bottom, five stitches
up the other side, six stitches across the top of the facing and seven goes
down to the end here. So let’s take a look at how to do that. We’ll take this
over to the sewing machine and the orientation, well I’ve got to get my
pocket turned around like this so that I can start that diagonal piece of
stitching right here, get this out of the way, I don’t want it creating a little
knot at the underside. So I’ll just set the needle in. I’m not going to back
stitch here and the reason is that I don’t want it to get a little bunch of
threads there. Just in case it does, I will pull the threads to the inside when
I’m done, but I definitely need my needle in the down position. So I’m going to
come up at that angle and stop within a sixteenth of an inch away from the top
edge of the facing and then I’m going to stitch across and looks like three
stitches is going to do it. There we go and then I’m going to –
needle is in the down position, I’m pivoting and I’m coming down now this
side, and I’m stitching within about a sixteenth of an inch away from the
folded edge of that pocket side and I need to go slowly and carefully as I
come up to this corner because I need to pivot right at the bottom, right there.
Raise the presser foot up, turn the fabric around the needle and begin
stitching. Again I’m trying to stay within about 1/16 of an inch away from
the folded edge of the pocket and go slow as you come up to the corner, and
needle in the down position raise the presser foot, turn the fabric, lower down
and again that’s called pivoting and now stitch up the other side and you’re
going to go all the way up to the folded edge of the top of the facing and within
1/16 of an inch, needle down, raise the presser foot, pivot
and I’m going to stitch for about a quarter of an inch like this and then
I’m going to pivot one last time and I’m going to aim down to this point which is
the end here point and once again when I get to my ending position, I’ll raise the
needle up, I’m not going to back stitch because I will pull these threads to the
inside. And this is what it looks like in fact I’ll just really quickly, if this
lifts up easily get those threads out of you and pull those threads to the inside
at which point I would tie them off and maybe put a little bit of fray check on
that knot just to make it nicely reinforced and let me get that loop and
pull it out. And so there you have it, it’s a perfectly finished pocket, there’s
that beautiful diagonal. It gives it lots of reinforcement at the top and so there
you have a patch pocket with perfectly mitered corners and you’ve seen how to
do the other corners whether they be rounded or angular and I know that as a
beginner this is going to be one of the easier places for you to start when you
start attaching pockets into your garment. If you’re not already a part of
the Sure-Fit Designs community, I do invite you to join us and it’s just
three simple and very easy steps. Number one, go on over to surefitdesigns.com
and join our newsletter list and when you join, you
going to end up with free getting started gifts.Number two, make sure you
like this video by using the subscribe button and the like button right below
it. My youtube channel is youtube.com/surefitdesigns and
thirdly join our community go to facebook we’ve got a Sure-Fit Designs
page and a Sure-Fit Designs user group page where people from all over the
world are interacting with one another. Thanks so much for watching and I’ll see
you in the next video.

24 thoughts on “Tutorial 21 Beginning Sewing Series Make it Sew – How to sew Pockets by Sure-Fit Designs™

  1. Boa tarde.
    Cada vídeo um novo aprendizado.
    Obrigada.
    Como faço para adquirir essas ferramentas que usa? almofada de passar as roupas e esse aí que acabou de usar para virar o bolso? Desde já agradeço

  2. Great video. What would we do without painter's tape? I do have one question. I noticed you didn't finish the raw edges of the pocket fabric before you turned and pressed them to the inside. Won't they fray after washing? I'm guessing not, but I"m not understanding why not. Thanks in advance for replying to this.

  3. Hi Glenda. Thank you so much for the tutorial. I got a stain on the back of my favorite pants that I could not remove. So I decided to hide it behind a pocket. Your tutorial was very easy to follow and you were great explaining each and every step. I can now wear my pants again.

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