Tutorial 23 Beginning Sewing Series Make it Sew – How to sew Collars by Sure-Fit Designs™


Hi everyone, my name is Glenda with
Sure-Fit Designs, sometimes referred to as Glenda the Good Stitch. In this Make it
Sew Beginner Series, something that all of you should know how to do is to sew on a
collar. So today I’m going to show you an easy process to get a collar attached.
It’s the collar like that I’m wearing on this blouse. It’s called a rolled collar.
It attaches, it rolls up and then it rolls over.The same collar is found on
the collar of this blouse on the mannequin. As we take a look at the
collar pattern pieces, you’re going to see basically your under collar and
upper collar. Now you’ll notice on the upper collar are – excuse me – on the under
collar, that I have interfaced it and under normal circumstances I wouldn’t
interface with the dark interfacing like this, it would be white, but for
demonstration purposes I’ve used a dark interfacing so you could see it and I’ve
used a different color of collar for the upper collar.
You’ll also notice with the interfacing that there are no seam allowances on the
interfacing and that’s the way you want to cut it. You don’t want to have bulk of
interfacing getting into those seam allowances because you’re trying to
reduce bulk once it’s all stitched and turned. For the upper collar, I’ve also
made some marking our sewing indicators here, so that’s a 5/8 inch stitching line,
there’s the point and there’s the other 5/8 inch stitching line and
you’ll see that at the other side as well. Okay, so as we begin on preparing
the collar, you will notice that there are notches here, here, here and here.
Now those notches are going to join to the shoulder seam lines of your
blouse or your shirt. So let’s first of all take the upper collar and we’re
going to do what is called stay stitching where you sew just about a
5/8 inch line. I’m going to sew just a hair inside the 5/8 inch marking and I’m
going to sew from notch to notch and that’s because I’m going to need to clip
up to the stay stitching in that notch area. So let’s take this to the sewing
machine and I’m going to start, as I said just a hair inside the 5/8 inch marking.
For stay stitching, your stitch length is on normal or 2.5 millimeters and you
don’t back stitch. And there I am at the other notch and we’ll just clip the
threads and let me get rid of those long threads because we’re not going to need
them in the way. Okay, now what we need to do is clip through those notches like
this up to the stay stitching. There and on this side. And then what I need to do
is simply press this seam allowance, fold it in toward the inside of the
collar so that stay stitching simply is going to guide me where to turn that
inside like this. Okay, now what we need to do is take the upper collar and sew
it to the under collar so I’m going to take the right side of the upper collar
and of course this is now the right side of the under collar. I’m just saying that
backwards. This is the upper collar and that’s the under collar. We’re going to
take these right sides together like this and then I’m going to pin the edges
in preparation for sewing. My machine is on regular stitch length
and this is a 5/8 inch seam allowance and I will back stitch here at the
beginning and I will have my needle in the down position. Now as we come up to
this collar point I am going to tighten my stitches just a little bit.
Normal is 2.5 millimeters. I’m going to go down to 1.5 millimeters just to
reinforce this point and this is a lesson actually on doing square corners
and points that I taught you a little bit earlier in the Make it Sew series and
I want to come up to the point my needle is in the down position, I’m going
to raise the presser foot, I’m going to pivot the fabric around the needle and
I’m going to do one diagonal stitch. That one diagonal stitch is going to allow
the corner to turn and look more pointed. And so now I’m going to come down – you
know what I’m going to do – one more stitch there diagonally because I’m not
quite on the 5/8. That looks better like that. And so depending on how tight your
stitches are, one or two stitches actually works and I’m going to stitch
for about a half an inch with that really tight. Then I’m going to go back to 2.5
stitches per inch. Now we’re coming up to the other point.
I’m going to tighten the stitches once again to 1.5 millimeters. I’m going to
come up to that little diagonal and here we come down the other side. Then what
we’re going to do is trim and grade the seam allowances. So once again in a
previous lesson I talked about trimming which is cutting the seam allowance by
half and then grading is to cut it by half again. And we’ll do that along the upper edge. And I should have trimmed those both at
the same time. Let me go in there and do that. I’m only doing a portion of this
and then I’m going to go back and finish up the whole thing. And then I am grading
and cutting down by half again. And then what we’ll do at that collar point is a
diagonal cut like this and like this and across the other side, so we get a really
nice sharp point. Okay, now I’m just going to finish up trimming and grading the
entire collar and then the next thing to do is take this collar and turn it right
sides out and I’ve shown you this point turner before. You’ll want to have one
handy and then take that and just simply poke the corner of the collar out and be
careful that you don’t push too hard because you don’t want this point turner
coming through the fibers there and I might just finish that off with a pin.
You’ve got to be really careful when you use a pin to pull the point out though,
because you don’t want to pull the fibers and now you see a perfect point.
So the next thing we’re going to do is press this edge and we’re going to turn
this so that we get a nice rolled edge on the top. So now we’re going to go
ahead and press the collar. When it’s open like this what you’ll want to do is
press as much of this seam as possible. What you’re doing here is helping to
meld the thread into the end of the fabric. You can’t get the iron in a long
way without putting a lot of creases in your collar, so I’ve just pressed as much
as I could. Then I’m going to take this and I’m just going to – I’ll remove the
ham now and just press on the flat surface
and you can see that this peach colored fabric is my upper collar and I want to
make sure that the upper collar is most dominant. In other words, I don’t want any
of that blue showing, that’s the under collar, so just have to roll it a little
bit more and you just need to use your fingers to do this and roll that upper
collar over top of the under collar to get it nice and and crisp and sharp on
the edge and we’ve got beautiful points on this collar. So the next step in attaching the collar
is to have the garment prepared. This is the front of the garment up here and
this is the back of the garment down here, and I’ve only done just a shorty
little sample because we’re just dealing actually with this neck circumference at
this point in time. I’ve done a gray fabric here and of course there are the shoulder seams right there, all seem finished. There is one other
thing that I’ve done in preparation to add the collar, is I’ve done what is
called stay stitching. The stay stitching that I’ve done on the neckline
is in this entire curved area and I did describe stay stitching but I also
wanted to draw your attention to this brochure that we have for you and it’s
all on sewing terminology. What do these terms all mean? And so in surefitdesigns.com if you go to Free Stuff, you’re going to see this sewing glossary and
terminology and it has all the common terms that are used in sewing. You’ll
want to go and download yourself a complimentary copy of this. And in review
stay stitching is done just about 5/8 of an inch away from the raw edge and where
we did the stay stitching, because now I need to do what’s called
clipping to the stay stitching to open up that curve, so that when I start
putting this collar, the straight collar onto the curved edge, this curve will
open up to fit the collar. And that stay stitching is usually done about every
1/2 inch. So you can see what happens when I take that curved edge and I open
like this. It opens those clips up and that’s exactly what we need. So now
you’re going to take your prepared collar and you take the under collar
which in this case is the blue piece and you’re going to take this shoulder
notch and match it to that shoulder seam. And we’ll start pinning.
And I usually go right to the other shoulder seam first and get that pinned
in place and then I do like to pin from the shirt side of the the collar
application. And here you can see, but I’m opening out that curvature so that the
seam allowance of the neckline will now match with that straight edge of the
collar and the other thing that you should be aware of in this particular
collar application, there is no back neck facing. This is a really neat technique
where the collar is going to come over top of the seam allowances. So initially
from notch to notch which is shoulder seam to shoulder seam, I have pinned only
the under collar together with the body. Now what I’m going to do is
take both the upper collar and under collar together and I’m going to start
pinning that to the neck edge because we are going to sew all three layers
together in the front neck edge. It’s only the back neck edge where we sew
just the one layer of collar and the same thing on the other side. Both layers
of your collar get pinned to the neck edge of this shirt or blouse in the
front only. Now we’re ready to take this to the sewing machine and attach the two
pieces together. So I’m going to start at the front edge of the collars. We’re
going to go to the sewing machine and at this point in time you can baste the
collar on to make sure that everything is all okay. I’m just going to go ahead
and regular stitch it, but I do want to make sure I stop and check periodically
that there are no little puckers under there. I am going to stitch with my
needle in the down position and I will back stitch to begin. Now when
I get to the shoulder line I’m going to stop and I’m going to make sure that
this upper collar is well pulled out of the way. I definitely don’t want that
caught in the back neck stitching. And then the next thing you do need to
do is just check it to make sure that everything is good and you can see that
there are no puckers on the shirt side and there are no puckers on the collar
side, so that looks really good. The next thing that we’re going to do is put on
the facings. Now I have the facings prepared and they are right here and
once again I’ve used a very dark interfacing so that you can see them.
I have stay stitched to the neck edge of the facing and I’ve clipped to the
stitching. So we’ll just lay the facing on to the front and you can see that I’m
opening up that neck edge of the facing as I lay it over top of that collar
piece. So this facing is actually going to sandwich that collar inside and
finish off all the raw edges on the front of the shirt. We’ll take this to
the sewing machine and when you come to the lapel point of
the front of the garment here, once again I’ve talked with you about points, I’m
going to reduce the stitch length down to 1.5 millimeters. I’m going to get very
close to that point and I’m going to do a diagonal stitch to help that look nice
and crisp and I’ll stitch for about a 1/2 inch with that tighter stitch
length and then turn it back to normal. So all of this is going to get trimmed
and graded in a corner is going to be clipped. This is now going to turn to the
inside like this. The corner will get pushed out and there is your collar
laying nice and flat and we’ll finish up the back head neck edge as well as
we progress. So before I actually trim and grade those corners, what I
would like you to do is make sure that obviously you do the other side as well.
So that’s your next step is preparing this side. At this point I’d like to show
you what it looks like when both the facings are in place.
I sewed one on for you and I went ahead and sewed the other facing in place, and of
course, that sandwiched the collar inside on the front neck edge. I also have
trimmed the seam allowance, which means cutting it in half and I’ve graded it,
which means cutting the facing seam allowance down by half again. And then I
angled the corner where the lapel is going to turn to the inside. Now the
next thing we do before we actually can turn all of this and press it, is we need
to get in to this back neck edge and we need to clip up to where the stitching
stopped at this collar piece right here. So that’s where the stitching stops.
Something else you’ll notice is that on the facings, I stopped at the seam line,
not all the way across the seam allowance when I was attaching the
facing onto the the neck edge. So I’m just going to turn that back out of the
way and now what I’m going to do is clip right up to this stitching right like
this. So I want to get all of that turned inside and you really do have to clip
pretty close to that stitching. So that gets turned out of the way and I’m just
going to clip right right up to that stitching like that. Now
what you’re going to do is take your facings and turn them to the inside and
use your point turner again and very carefully push out the point of the
lapel of that facing. And of course this is all going to need to be pressed and
then as we keep turning to the inside, you can see how the collar is now
sitting on that front neck edge. Let’s get this other one turned. We’ll take a
look at it this way now, so this remaining seam allowance right here is
now going to get turned up inside like this and it gets completely enclosed in
that upper collar. So the next thing we need to do is give this a good press.
Alright as we continue on with pressing, now what I’m going to do is just open
this up as much as I can and I’m going to press the seam allowances towards the
facing and again, go up as high as you can and then take your facing and press
it towards the inside just gently rolling that seam, so that it’s more
towards the inside of your garment rather than the outside and make sure
you get that collar point – or the lapel point I should say, like this and of
course we need to do the same thing on the other side. I’ll give it a quick
press on the inside. Pressing the seam allowances towards the facing and then
rolling just ever so slightly with that facing towards the inside and up to the
lapel point like that. And of course this is all going to turn back like this. It’s
really very pretty. Now I’m just going to take the ham and I’ll show you the back
neck curvature and how to press that. So you’ll remember we clipped up to the
shoulder line in that stitching, so now you take this remaining seam allowance
right here and you’re going to press it inside and you just want to use the tip
of your iron to get that pressed up inside and prevent any wrinkles from
happening in the body of the garment. Now this will come over top like this and
this completely gets enclosed within that seam allowance and the shoulder
seam. So the next step is to stitch it. Now once that’s been pressed, you can see
that what I’ve done there is I’ve pushed the seam allowances up inside the collar
like this. I just wanted to show that to you before I started pinning it. It’s
absolutely a beautiful, clean, neat option and way to finish the back neck edge
without having a facing back there. And so now all I am doing is pinning to hold
that in place so that I can start stitching it. And notice that seam
allowance went right up inside beautifully and the facing comes back
and meets the edge of the seam allowance just like it should. And now at this
point if you feel more comfortable, you can hand stitch your neck edge down at
the back or what I’m going to do is take it to the sewing machine and just start
stitching, and that should be fine too as long as everything’s all on a perfect 1
to 1 , it will all turn out and look good. Sew this line of machine stitching is
done very close to the folded edge of the the seam that’s turned up inside and
I likely will back stitch here just two or three stitches to lock it and I
shouldn’t need the needle in the down position here.
And I just want to stitch very carefully because I’m stitching approximately a
1/16 of an inch away from that folded edge of the collar. That looks
pretty darn good and here’s what it looks like on the inside, right there. And
of course, these threads I would just clip and we’ll take a look at the other
side in a moment. And so that looks really good. And then at this point these
seam allowances, all you need to do is hand stitch the seam allowance of the
shoulder line together with the facing. And so that’s why they’re pinned just in
place there, but that’s you can see it’s a really neat back neck finish and
here’s what the other side looks like. And of course your collar is going to
come up and roll over and sit like that. And you all know that I’ve been using a
contrasting color of thread to show you all of the different steps so that you
can see it. You, of course, will be working in the
same color thread as your fabric and it will all blend beautifully. So that’s an
easy rolled collar and there’s a little lapel to go on it like this and I think
you’re going to find that quite an easy technique as a beginner seamstress. One
last thing that I want to point out if I didn’t do this at the beginning is that
you will notice that the only thing that I had sewn in this garment was the
shoulder seams and that’s because it was still basically one big long flat unit.
Had I sewn the side seams as well it would now become a three-dimensional
form. And so it’s just easier in the flatter format in order to put a collar
on. One of the things that I’ve been trying to teach you as we’ve gone along
in these lessons is the actual progression and the step
of what you do first and then second. What you do sequentially when you’re
sewing a garment together, because all of it is all going to meld together as you
start putting your garments together. If you enjoyed this video and I certainly
hope that you have, I invite you to join the Sure-Fit Designs community and you
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to see you next time.

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